was my next challenge and from all reports rain should be expected. My optimistic side was thinking that by the time I arrived in the city

of Queenstown in a few days, the weather should have sorted itself out.

Once I pick up my car I decide to head south, and spend my first night in the town of  TIMARU. What a beautiful spot, I checked into a great apartment right on the promenade, it obviously has a fantastic view on a fine day. Today tho was a different matter. The view was marred by mist and rain, but the pub next door thankfully served a beautiful steak & a great red wine.

I wake in the morning and yes it’s still raining so I hop into my little “blue machine” and I am off… rain & mist all the way until I arrive at WAIMATE, here I get myself some well deserved fresh fruit for brekky and head off again ---- back into the deluge!!!!

The rain has caused greater problems the further south I head, and as I drive along I come across so many roads that are cut by floodwaters, this of course led to diversions etc.  After all these I finally arrive at OAMARU, a much bigger town than I expected. I spent some relaxing time at their beautiful galleries. I continued to drive visiting all the beaches along the coast. Not seeing too much because of the weather, I eventually hit a spot called “SHAG POINT”.

What a superb spot, and what another beautiful “gallery - café - home” I came upon. Mine host, who I must say is still nameless to me today was so very hospitable. His gallery is to be recommended, the view on a fine day would just knock your socks off and the coffee was fantastic!

After leaving “THE SHAG” I head onto Dunedin, and wow! I find yet another beautiful city. Even tho these cities are so much smaller than ours in OZ and other countries I’ve visited, I am still not a city dweller and always look for the out, so I head to the OTAGO PENINSULA, and here I book into an absolutely superb B&B. Not cheap, but very comfy & in the right spot. The restaurant of choice was called 1908 – it was just across the road and it was the best restaurant in town!  

The next morning I headed off to LARNACH CASTLE, again, the weather did a disservice to the landmark, still it must have been the same in bygone years. I got some great photos, but I felt so much sadness for the original families and the hell they were put through. The family history had 2 gun suicides plus other uncounted deaths of women from unknown circumstances. None of the family seemed to be happy, and from historic records alcohol & depression were a major factor in their demise. Money certainly doesn’t buy you happiness!

After all this history I head further south and make stops on my way at LAKE WAIHOLA, MILTON, GORE and finally INVERCAGILL. I check out the town then head as far away as I can arriving at BLUFF.

What an awesome site. On my arrival the wind was howling, the seas were enormous and there was not a human in site. You could feel the icey winds just piercing your soul. Choice of accommodation was very limited. “LANDS END” was it! This is a B&B that looked a bit like the “munsters house”, particularly in the wild climate. It was far from that, the hosts, a couple in their 60’s were more than welcoming & their food and service were fantastic. They’ve owned it for 15 years ! Dinner was great, fresh salmon, and some good NZ Savignon Blanc all shared with a “travelling salesman” & a really lovely English family of three.

After a great sleep and a hearty brekky I jump into my car & head off.

QUEENSTOWN was an easy drive and what an absolutely beautiful town. So picturesque and yet so very touristy, even off-season.

After settling into my hotel I head off for a group briefing on the Milford Track and meet most of the people who’ll be walking with me. A real mix, some experienced walkers, some novices, all of varying ages, sexes and nationalities. I think to myself  “ this should be fun.”

DAY 1- departure is at 6am, and of course someone is late, it just has to happen doesn’t it?  It’s funny how when you travel alone you always seem to find yourself a companion. I buddied up with a young American girl, Kathryn. Her dad is a Kiwi, who spent many years in the States but now lives back in New Zealand, she resides in Hawaii. We take a very comfy bus trip to TE ANAU where we board a launch and disembark for a short walk to “Glade House”. Here we spend our first night and what a very pleasant surprise it is for me.

This trek or “TRAMP” as the Kiwis call it is just so very different to my previous experiences. It’s quite luxurious, the accommodation is in lodges with hot showers, and the food and wine is just fantastic.

DAY 3- only 15kms today, but this is the most arduous day on the walk, the scenery again was just so beautiful, you think of nothing else. Upon reaching the top of Mackinnon Pass we were confronted by an extremely heavy fog, it was absolutely freezing and we couldn’t see 3 foot in front of us. The hot soup or tea or chocolate provided was very welcome. It was FREEZING, we were all grateful for our woollens and couldn’t help but think of how those pioneering men felt all those years ago and how soft we are today. We continue our walk of pleasure and

after arriving at Quinton Lodge and unpacking we head off on a walk to Sutherland Falls. It’s so beautiful, so much so that a few of us strip down and get behind the falls. The roar is deafening and the wind created by the volume of water is just amazing. Thank heaven for the warmth of the sun. Dinner tonite was again superb and also very welcome, we played music on an old pianola and shared a sing-a-long, jokes were forthcoming and on arrival back in our room we girls had the biggest “LAUGH- FEST” imaginable, it was so----ooo fantastic.

DAY 4 – 21kms, the longest day of the trek and also the last one.

I’m thinking that it’s ending all too soon, and I’ll make the most of what lies ahead. The scenery, the crystal waters, the company, the fantastic guides and the peace that you experience whilst you’re out in the wilderness is truly amazing. The troupers that we are, we end our walk in record time, arriving at Sandfly Point ways earlier than normal. The ferry takes us on a scenic trip over to Milford, where we check into the hotel and PARTY TIME is but a short time away! What a night to remember --- we had an absolute ball after dinner at the local pub !

DAY 5 – A few sore heads this morning, but still a lot of smiles there.

After brekky we all board the vessel and do the cruise on the beautiful Milford Sound. A fitting end after finally completing what has been noted as the “finest walk in the world”. Again the weather rared its ugly head and prevented us from flying back to Queenstown so we had to bus it. For me it was just all too short!

After another night in Queenstown I picked up a car and headed north to Franz Joseph, a bitter disappointment for me again though as the weather didn’t allow any flights over the glaciers. The next best thing was a walk to check it all out. From here I headed up to Greymouth for the night and then I drive across Arthurs Pass to Christchurch, that was another great experience, the weather again came in and made visibility almost zero. It was awesome watching the clouds roll across, then rise again and the within seconds they were almost at eye level, scarey!

I made it through tho and I booked into a lovely hotel in Christchurch, where from here I enjoyed a few good meals and did the regular tours.

For me I felt the walk was all too short, another 3-5 days would have been fantastic. I think that one should encompass the Routeburn Track as well. I know an American and an English couple chose to do that.

Still, to see the beauty that New Zealand has to offer was just awesome.

I’ll most certainly go back again but I really need to see the rest of the South Island before I head to the North Island.

By Vicki Ashford